In my last post, L1836 – Walls not Doors, I described our extended stay in the small port of Gran Tarajal on Fuerteventura in the Canary Islands, where we were unexpectedly forced to stay overnight due to strong winds. Leaving Gran Tarajal the following morning with the assistance of a tug, and with our planned visit to Agadir in Morocco cancelled, we then had two days at sea before we reached our final port of call on this cruise, Lisbon in Portugal.
Around 6:30 am on the morning we were sailing into Lisbon, both Carol and I were suddenly woken by the very loud sound of the ship’s foghorn blasting away. What seemed only a few seconds later, it sounded again, and then again. When I pulled back our thick curtains I instantly knew why – all I could see was a wall of thick white fog – a real pea-souper! There was clearly no point in going out onto our balcony to watch us sail up the river as planned, so instead I made Carol her morning cup of tea and then retreated back into the warmth of the bed. A little while later Carol thought she heard the distinctive rumble you hear as the ship passes under the 25 de Abril Bridge, but looking outside there was no sign of it – just fog everywhere. We must have passed under the bridge then, for it was not long that the sounds and vibrations of the ship changed as we crabbed sideways into our berth – although again looking out of the window there was no sight of land!
Once it got light I ventured out onto the balcony, and by then the fog was just starting to lift. Even so, there was a huge contrast in the scene before me, compared to when we were docked at the same berth just three months ago at the start of our Captains in Cádiz cruise.
Carol and I have both been to Lisbon numerous times, and I must have done virtually every tour in the book, some of them multiple times! We therefore decided to do our own thing this time, and had two things in mind – to wander through the historic area opposite the ship and hopefully climb as far as the castle, and to do some shopping in the city centre. Although by the time we had eaten our breakfast and got ready the fog had lifted quite a bit, we decided it would be best to do the shopping in the morning, and the sight-seeing in the afternoon.
Reaching the city centre it was very noticeable just how different it was walking around, compared to our last visit just three months ago. There were plenty of attractive Christmas decorations in the streets, and there were far fewer people about making it much easier and more pleasant to get about. Although the focus at this stage was the shopping, of course I still had my camera in hand in case we spotted something unusual or scenic to snap, such as a Christmas shop.
In the main shopping street we decided to stop at one of the pavement cafés for a drink and a snack, and of course a bit of people watching. We ordered some toasted sandwiches thinking they would be a snack, but when they arrived we quickly decided that this was an early lunch after all!
One of the very noticeable features of Lisbon is all the little shops selling pastries and of course the iconic pastel de nata, or egg tart, a creamy custard tart. We were both very good though, and merely did window-shopping – and of course window-snapping.
Shopping (and window shopping) complete, we made our way back to the ship via the Praça do Comércio, the main square close to the river, where a huge artificial christmas tree had been erected – I couldn’t resist walking though it so that I could take a photograph looking upwards inside the centre of the tree.
As we walked back along the river-front towards our ship we saw that the fog was tending to roll back in, so we decided to forget the sight-seeing that afternoon, and leave it for another time – cruises visit Lisbon so often that we are bound to be back one day, even though curiously its not on the itinerary of any that we currently have booked. We thought that one of the reasons to climb up to the castle was to get the views down to the river, and thought it likely with the fog that this would be very limited – as confirmed by our table companions at dinner later who had ventured up there.
So instead we relaxed in the luxury of our suite, which fortunately was on the right side of the ship to get the lovely views of the historic areas, which when the sun did come out again looked lovely.
All too soon the Captain came on the tannoy to give his pre-departure talk, meaning that very sadly we were about to set sail for the last time on this cruise, heading of course back towards Southampton and home. As we cast off the sun was already setting, and Carol and I watched from our lovely huge balcony as we turned and sailed out under the bridge, passing the Cristo Rei statue (inspired by the Christ the Redeemer statue in Rio de Janeiro) on the way. I had thought of running up onto the top-most deck once we had cleared the bridge to take photographs of the various monuments and buildings on the northern bank of the river, but as dusk was fast setting in I thought better of it and remained in our suite after all.
With our last port of call completed, all that remained on this cruise were the old favourites on board – the Crew Show and the Gala Buffet. This time the Gala Buffet was held at lunchtime, and I can see the logic in that more people are around at that time to both see and eat the food – but wouldn’t it be nice if people were allowed in to view and photograph the exhibits before people are allowed to eat them, like used to happen in the late evenings?
As I write this we are sailing back across the Bay of Biscay. While the weather is nothing like as severe as I have known it on previous cruises, it is still completely different to the idyllic conditions we had at the start of this cruise when sailing south – there have been several code alpha (medical emergency) tannoy calls this morning presumably due to the unsteady ship. Here is a comparison of the weather sailing south to sailing north:
This cruise completes our sailings for this calendar year, and also for the next five months, so for the first time in four years I will be spending the winter months at home rather than at sea in tropical climes – I hope it is not going to be too much of a shock to the system. So until our next cruise in May, I will say farewell, and wish all readers all the very best wishes for Christmas and for the New Year.
Postscript
On the day we were in Lisbon, when Carol and I returned to our cabin after breakfast we had a pleasant surprise – a christmas tree had been put up in our suite, and was being beautifully decorated.
During that day, and the following day decorations appeared all around the ship in public areas, making it all look extra special. I have done three Christmas cruises in the past, but it was the first time that Carol had seen how lovely they decorate the ships.