Introduction
In my last post, L2323 – The Washington Post, I described the wonderful tour we made to Washington DC from the port of Baltimore, and also a couple of days of scenic cruising that we did prior to reaching Baltimore. In this post I will cover the remaining three ports of call on our return journey from visiting Canada and the USA, a full day on the island of Bermuda, and shorter ‘pit-stops’ in the Azores and in Spain.
Hamilton, Bermuda
Leaving Baltimore we had two quiet days at sea, before arriving at our next port of call, Hamilton, which is the main town on the island of Bermuda. When I first awoke it was still very dark, so I checked on the internet to see where we were. I was surprised to see that it almost looked like we were sailing past the island, but then the ship swung around and sailed back fairly close to the shore. As the sun came up I could see we were following a marked channel into the port.
We returned from breakfast just as we were making our final approach into Hamilton. Our small size meant we were able to dock right in the centre of the town, which was great. The larger cruise ships have to dock much further out of town, more on this later.
Carol and I had visited Bermuda once before, on our 2018 World Cruise. On that occasion we had docked at a different place again, right down the other end of the long thin island. You can read about our adventures on that occasion in my post W1801 – Bermuda Shots.
When we received the tour descriptions this time around, Carol was surprised when I said I wanted to do a tour very similar to the one we did before. The tour was a scenic tour around the island, and knowing that the island has a reputation for being lovely, I wanted the chance to see it properly for ourselves, as last time the weather had so wet and misty. Last time the tour lasted five hours as it was travelling to and from the far end of the island, this time it was only three hours as we were docked more centrally.
With the narrow twisty roads on the island, only mini coaches holding around 20 passengers are used for the tours. We were a little late docking, and by the time the ship had received clearance and we had boarded our coaches, the tour set off just over half an hour late. As we waited to drive off I took this snap of one of the many attractive buildings on the waterfront.
For once the different coaches doing the same tour seemed to scatter off in different directions. Our driver/guide was quite a character, very enthusiastic about his island, and he kept us informed and entertained without continually bombarding us with facts and figures.
Our first stop was at a tourist hotel on the southern coast of the island, where we walked though to a pretty balcony overlooking a swimming pool, with lovely sea views. Our guide told us that many of the hotels along this coast had their own sandy beaches.
We then drove on further along the coast, to what our driver/guide said was his favourite beach. As we pulled up he told us to look at the cliff, he said it looked like a gorilla’s face – if I squint a bit I think I see what he means:
We parked up so that we could go for a walk along the almost empty beach. In the car park were a couple of chickens, the guide told us that they roam freely around this island. Down on the beach the sand was soft and white, but had some little bits of pinky-red coral mixed in with it. This was off-season, to Carol and I the temperature was just right – much more pleasant than mid summer, and I must say both the hotel and the empty beach looked very appealing.
Just before we left the beach, I noticed a colourful bird in the bushes at the back, and quickly zoomed in with my camera to see if I could photograph it. Usually in this situation the bird flies off just as I get the lens pointed somewhere in its direction, but in this case it was very cooperative, and I managed to get several shots. Later I looked it up on the internet, and I am pretty sure that it is a great kiskadee. If so this is yet another of man’s introductions that hasn’t gone well – 50 birds were introduced from Trinidad to control some lizards, but instead they eat helpful insects and the eggs of smaller birds, and out compete the local wildlife.
The next stop on our tour was at the Gibbs Hill Lighthouse, somewhere that we had also visited back in 2018. The lighthouse stands on one of the highest hills on the island and its grounds offer panoramic views all around, which thankfully we could see at their best this time.
Continuing our tour, we stopped next at Somerset Bridge, featuring the smallest drawbridge in the world. Small flaps in the drawbridge could be raised to allow the mast of a sailing boat to pass through, but our guide told us that these had been fastened closed for many years. Here the guide also fed the large number of fish in the channel nearby.
Crossing the bridge, we drove on to the Royal Naval Dockyard. This used to the principle base of the Royal Navy in the Western Atlantic, but now a tourist attraction featuring museums, local boutiques for jewellery, crafts and souvenirs, and it is also where the large cruise ships dock. Like Somerset Bridge, it was somewhere we had visited on the previous tour, and we were content to wander around the shops.
On the drive back to our ship in Hamilton, our guide pointed out a house that he called “the house of many colours”. He told us that in Bermuda you can paint your house in any colour you like, but in this case they had taken this freedom to the extreme.
Talking of houses, our guide told us about the unusual white roofs on virtually every building. These concrete roofs are designed to capture the rainwater, the lime white paint helps to purify the water, which is fed to a large tank which is usually under the house. This tank is then the water supply for the house, as there is no mains water system. He also pointed out that while quite a few houses have chimneys, these are purely for decoration, as you would not want soot falling onto the roof and contaminating the water.
Returning to the ship we went back on board for some lunch and a brief rest, before returning to do some shopping in the town. Whilst there I could not resist snapping the brightly painted public conveniences on the quayside.
Back on the ship I was interested to read my post from our visit in 2018, and compare the photos taken in the poor weather then, to the bright sunshine on our second visit. I think the comparison more than justifies doing the same tour twice:
At around 5pm we watched from our balcony as we sadly set sail from this beautiful island – the island was still looking lovely in the low late afternoon sun.
That evening at dinner we were treated to an absolutely stunning sunset. I will be honest it was more than a little frustrating to be stuck in the dining room and not out on an open deck taking proper photographs, but here are some snaps which I took on my phone (thankfully I had it with me) through the glass windows of the restaurant which may give you an idea of how amazing it was.
We then had five days at sea crossing the Atlantic Ocean before we reached our next port of call, Ponta Delgada in the Azores.
Ponta Delgada, São Miguel Island, Azores
Compared to our crossing of the Atlantic from east to west earlier in the cruise, the five days spent crossing in the other direction between Bermuda and the Azores were calm and quiet. We sailed into Ponta Delgada, a port we have visited many times before, while we were at breakfast, and to our surprise we were to be in port all day – on our original itinerary it was listed as a half-day visit.
The weather forecast for the day was for sunshine and light showers, which looked quite plausible when we went out onto our balcony after breakfast to look around.
As this was very much a repeat visit we had not booked a tour, and planned just to do some shopping in the town. Out in the open the wind was quite brisk, but up in the town it was warm in the sunshine, and we soon regretted talking our light coats.
Shopping complete, we paused by the harbour and I snapped a few shots there of our ship and of the boats moored there.
We then made our way back to our ship, for lunch and a relaxing afternoon in our cabin, waiting for the Captain’s departure announcement. During the Captain’s noon report over the previous three days, he had been warning us about more storms ahead, and he was clearly getting us prepared for our visit to A Coruña in Spain being cancelled. He had said that they were investigating whether an alternative port would be possible if it was cancelled, but seasoned travellers like Carol and I knew that we would just be making our way slowly back to Southampton.
Sure enough, when he made his departure announcement, A Coruña was cancelled due to forecast seas of 8 metres in the Bay of Biscay, and we would be heading straight for Southampton. He warned us again of the stormy seas ahead, with 6 metre waves possible later the next day. Lovely!
As we sailed out the weather was already clearly on the turn, the wind had really got up and the skies were grey and threatening. I took the same photos as I had done on our arrival for comparison:
We had only eased a short way out from the quayside when I was astonished to see the pilot boat come alongside to reclaim the pilot – talk about money for old rope!
At dinner we watched the coastline of São Miguel Island slip past us in the fading light, and we wondered what the weather would have in store for us before we next saw land.
We are now hunkering down for four very lively days and nights at sea before we (fingers crossed) reach Southampton and home. We are lucky though, we have a lovely spacious cabin, and we are very content to hibernate there, apart from venturing to the restaurant for our meals, which is thankfully on the same floor.
Conclusion
As another cruise comes to an end, it is time to reflect on the highs and lows of our voyage. The lows are clearly the storms that have affected us both on the way out and on the way back – no one’s fault – just nature doing its thing. Unfortunately they meant we missed out on the first day in St John’s, Newfoundland, and our half day stop in A Coruña. The timing of the cruise, which meant we were in Canada very early in October, combined with a late Fall this year, meant we saw hardly anything of the autumn colours.
On the positive side, the real highlights were New York and Washington, where we were blessed with perfect bright sunny weather, and I am sure we were able to see both cities at their best.